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Sunday, February 27, 2005

Where's the Fruit?

It's nice to be back in Canada for a couple of weeks on the pretext of a business trip! All CIDA's field representatives based in Latin America and the Caribbean meet once a year to discuss new policies, share experiences, and exchange ideas with senior management. Normally, this meeting takes place somewhere in the region, with Cuba, Guatemala, Bolivia, and Jamaica being recent choices. This year's meeting was initially going to be held in Nicaragua, but got moved back to Ottawa. No doubt the idea of bringing us back in the middle of winter was to remind us how lucky we are to be in the field!

Being back in Canada has reminded me that life in Canada and Brazil is different (was there ever any doubt?). Some of the advantages of being in Canada are not having to separate my credit cards and my bank cards; being able to walk all over the place; not having to look over my shoulder when stopped at a red light; drinking tap water without wondering if I will end up sick; and not having to tuck a fifty into my shoe just in case. As for the not-so-great things about Canada: static cling (I was so happy without it, that I forgot it even existed until I landed back home); head hat (even without wearing a hat!); cold toilet seats; no beach (at least not nearby); and where's the fruit?

Friday, February 18, 2005

And the Winner is ....

The results are in! An independent panel of three judges have submitted their votes for Caipirissima's first contest, Strange Signs. Many thanks to all who entered. The competition was tight, but without further ado, here are the results:

1st Category: Creativity
Winner: BHR suggesting a misinterpretation of "Bus Passengers - Alight Here"
Runner up 1: A bus stop for people with a high likelyhood of spontaneous combustion (Carolyn)
Runner-up 2: Buses stopping at the sign are not airconditioned, 'cause when it is hot in Rio, it is hot! (Anonymous)

2nd Category: Realism
Winner: Paul suggesting a Fire Truck stop. Sheesh.
Tied for Runner-up: Beware of carrying combustible materials on buses (Chant'l); and a marker for places where buses have caught fire in Santa Tereza (Anonymous)

Tied for Overall Winner (Scores for creativity and realism added together):
BHR with the misinterpretation of "Bus Passengers - Alight Here"; and
Anonymous with a marker for where bus have caught fire in Santa Tereza.

And there you have it! Congratulations to all and many thanks to contestants and judges alike. Sponsorship scandal aside, I have to say that the judging behind this contest was true to the strictest RFP grids used by the Government of Canada! BHR -- I would send you some coffee, but I think that you are located in Australia ...

Thursday, February 17, 2005

Fly East, Gain an Hour

When both the northern and southern hemispheres are on Standard Time, most of Brazil is three hours behind GMT, with a few of the further-flung states being in separate time zones. However, not all parts of Brazil follow Daylight Savings Time during the summer. So at the moment, Sao Paulo is only two hours behind GMT while Recife, which doesn’t follow DST, is still three hours behind. Flying to Recife therefore put me physically closer to Greenwich, but actually more time zones away.... Depending on the time of year, the same city in Brazil can be two, three, or four hours behind GMT. All this because the northern and southern hemispheres move in and out of Standard Time and Daylight Savings Time at opposite times and in opposite directions. Enough to make you throw away your watch eh?

Recife Bound!

I am just back from a four day office and apartment hunting trip to Recife. After several years of having a presence in Sao Paulo, CIDA is relocating its second office -- the primary office being at the Canadian Embassy in Brasilia -- to Brazil’s Northeastern region. The fourth largest city in Brazil, Recife was chosen for our new office as it is home to many other diplomatic missions as well as international and domestic organizations working in the area of poverty reduction. A city of a mere two million people (perhaps I have been in Sao Paulo for too long....), it is often considered the "capital" of the Northeast.

The nine states that form Brazil’s Northeast are a world away from the ones that constitute the South and Southeast. Poorer and much less industrial, the North and Northeast suffer from much higher concentrations of poverty than the South and Southeast – hence CIDA’s relocation from Sao Paulo to Recife. One of our goals over the next five years is to increase programming in this part of the country.

We saw some pretty sweet places over the past three days. As of May, my view will likely look pretty much like the one above! Sad, isn't it?

Saturday, February 12, 2005

Second Guessing the Phone Lady

Before heading out to the museum on Saturday afternoon, I called the transit line to figure out which bus I should take to get from my place in Santo Amaro to the museum in Ipiranga. Even by car, it would take at least half an hour to get from one to the other. There are two spots close to my house from which I can catch a bus: on Washington Luis, just under a ten minute walk east of my place; and on Adolpho Pinheiro, just over a ten minute walk west. The phone lady informed me that I should first catch a bus on Washington Luis and then transfer to a second bus somewhere near Ibirapeura Park. Never fully believing the phone people without checking for myself, I cross-referenced the two routes in my route guide, and found out that I could actually catch the second bus right from Adolpho Pinheiro.

Once I had verified that it wasn’t the milkrun to top all milkruns, I headed towards Adolpho Pinheiro and caught the second bus right off the bat. It took me exactly an hour to get to the museum once I caught the bus, which is fairly standard for Sao Paulo. Of course, it is impossible to tell whose route would have been faster. Although the route I ultimately chose had some minor milkrun elements to it, it also meant that I did not lose any time either transferring buses, or even trying to figure out where to hop on and off. Since bus stops are not actually marked, it takes a bit of guess work to figure out where to stand! In all, another successful adventure in public transportation!

A Little Piece of France

Back in December, Claire and I transported ourselves to a little piece of Germany when we visited Campos do Jordão. This weekend, it was time to head to a little piece of France, right here in the middle of Sao Paulo. The Museu Paulista, also called the Museu Ipiranga, and its gardens were built in the style of Château Versailles. The building was commissioned in 1884 by Dom Pedro II as a moment to Brazil’s independence. The idea of building a monument to Brazil's independence, on or near the spot where the soon-to-be Dom Pedro I declared “independence or death” back in 1822, had been around for quite awhile. However, it was only when Italian architect Tommaso Gaudenzio Bezzi proposed the plans for the current building, that Dom Pedro II authorized its construction. At the time of its commission, the monarchy was faltering and the idea of republicanism was gaining ground. In addition to commemorating Brazil’s independence, Dom Pedro hoped that the construction of the stately building would help bolster the monarchy’s standing (it didn’t and Brazil became a republic in 1889).

Inaugurated on November 15, 1890, on the one year anniversary of the proclamation of the Republic of Brazil, the building opened as a natural history museum in 1895. Eventually, the natural history exhibit was moved to another location and the Museum’s collection came to revolve around the history of Sao Paulo and its inhabitants. Within its exhibits is an excellent collection of old photographs of Sao Paulo back in the day. In all, visiting the museum and lazing around the gardens and the fountains sipping an agua de coco was a terrific way to spend a sunny afternoon in Sao Paulo.

Friday, February 11, 2005

Driving in Sao Paulo II


Had my third driving lesson yesterday and things are going surprisingly well. There was a brief moment of panic when the instructor decided that I have had enough of small side roads and rich residential neighbourhoods and took me onto some of Sao Paulo major thoroughfares! I never made it into fifth – traffic never goes fast enough for that – but I did enjoy the long stretches of relative speed! Here is the view from my office window when things aren't moving along quite so speedily.

Some observations on driving in Sao Paulo:
  • You should never ever check your blind spot while driving in Brazil. This helpful piece of advice was offered by a colleague who said that the chances of the car in front of you braking in the nanosecond that you check your blind spot are so high, that it is better to keep your eye on the car ahead than the car that you are about to cut-off. Sage advice indeed!
  • The real kamikazes out there are the motorcycle drivers – or motoboys as they are called here. These guys travel between the lanes and weave in and out like there is no tomorrow. In fact, there often is no tomorrow. I haven’t been able to officially confirm this, but apparently two motoboys a day die on the streets of Sao Paulo.
  • Another piece of advice around the motoboys is to never ever do anything to anger them. Although the motoboys do not know each other, they will all come to the rescue of another if something happens. And it really doesn’t matter if the car driver wasn’t at fault.

The Strange Signs contest will be open for the next five days, at which point a panel of independent, but bribable, judges will select the winning entry. If you haven't voted early, you can still vote often.

Wednesday, February 09, 2005

And now for something completely different

... a little background on the Brazilian flag.

Distinctively green, yellow, and blue, the Brazilian flag is full of symbolism. Adopted over a hundred years ago on November 19, 1889, the flag has undergone only a few changes since then.

The Colours: Although many think that the green background and the yellow rhombus represent Brazil’s wealth of natural resources (green for the Amazon, the Atlantic rainforest, and the Pantanal; and yellow for the country’s large gold deposits), the two colours actually represent the House of Bragança and the House of Hapsburg, the respective families of Pedro I, the first emperor of Brazil (I promise, more on that to come), and his wife, Empress Leopoldina.

The Sky and Stars: The stars depict a mirror-image of the sky as it appeared in Rio de Janeiro, on November 15, 1889 at 8:30, the day that Brazil was declared a republic (as opposed to its independence, which was declared on September 7, 1822). Each star represents a specific state, and stars have been added and removed as new states have been created or amalgamated. The constellations represented on the flag are Canis Minor, Canis Major, Canopus, Virgo, Hydra, the Southern Cross, the Southern Triangle, Scorpius, and Octans. Since not every star seen on the night of November 15, 1889 is on the flag, it is easy enough to fill the constellations in more or less depending on the need to add or remove states.

The Band and Motto: Although there has been speculation that the white band crossing the blue sky represents the ecliptic, the celestial equator, or the zodiak belt, according to the Government of Brazil, the white band was simply needed as a place to put the country’s motto Ordem e Progreso, a motto based on French philosopher Auguste Compte’s theories of positivism.


Strange Signs - A Contest will be open for the next seven days, at which point a panel of independent, but bribable, judges will select the winning entry. If you haven't voted early, you can still vote often

Tuesday, February 08, 2005

Strange Signs - A Contest

If anyone knows what this sign means, please, let us know. We saw several in the quaint (until we were robbed) neighbourhood of Santa Tereza in Rio. A pound of Brazilian coffee will go to the most creative and/or likely suggestion (unfortunately, due to my travel schedule, the prize is only valid for those living in the Montreal, Ottawa, or Toronto region). Others are still encouraged to enter, but the prize will be limited to the satisfaction of winning. Vote early. Vote often.

Nota bene: For those who want to vote, but are afraid of selling their soul to Blogger, pick "anonymous" when commenting.

It's a Dog's Life


On my way home from Ibirapuera Park yesterday, I stopped to buy Felix a cat bed. I like to think that this is not a sign that I am turning into the Crazy Cat Lady. Rather, I thought that since Felix, poor kitty, spends almost as much time at my neighbour's place as he does here, that perhaps he would like his own little bed which he could take with him when he travels. For this quest, I went to Cobasi, the Sao Paulo pet superstore where I found aisle upon aisle of pet beds.

After such high hopes for a successful trip, I was a little disappointed in the selection of pet beds which were clearly not intended for the likes of Felix.
  1. Felix is not a dog. Brazilians are dog people and not cat people and this is reflected in the pet bed industry. Eighty percent of the beds in the store were clearly for dogs, either patterned with other dogs, dog bones, or dog houses. Even ones that could have been neutral pet beds, ended up having a small dog-related patch identifying the maker.
  2. Felix is neither a baby nor a girl-cat. Of the remaining twenty percent of non-species specific beds, ninety percent were covered in either baby material or very femimine material.
  3. Felix does not like lumpy pillows. Need I say more?

Fortunately, there was one bed which was just perfect for our feline hero. I quickly snatched it before anyone else could. As you can see, Felix is quite pleased with his new possession. Whoever said cats don't like the finer things in life?

Monday, February 07, 2005

137 Days


I have just spent the better part of today unpacking my sea shipment which has finally arrived, 137 days after being packed up from my place in Ottawa. Woo-hoo! For the most part, it has been a joyous reunion. I know that we are not supposed to be materialist, but here are some of the things I was quite pleased to see:

the wonderful tile coffee table that Larryji made a couple of years back. It will have a place of honour in the apartment.
my bike! I'm thinking about seeing if I can bike to work using all the backroads, but perhaps I should try it first on a Sunday...
my rollerblades! Headed to Ibirapuera park by bus this afternoon to try them out. Unfortunately half of Sao Paulo had the same brilliant idea, and while I had fun, speed and freedom was definitely not the name of the game.
books, books, books, especially my dictionaries and bescherelles; no more spelling or verb tense mistakes for me!
miscellaneous sewing and computing accessories that have prevented me from either sewing or computing to the fullest.

A few things that I wasn't expecting also arrived, including another box that was destined for long-term storage (that makes two now). Although now that they are here, I am sure that I will get lots of use out of my broken dustbuster and my job-finding binder from 1998! Also, and perhaps even more surprisingly, two rather large boxes and two smaller boxes filled with crumpled packing paper also arrived. No doubt used to fill up the extra volume in the crate, I sadly still feel the need to take out and straighten every piece of paper to make sure that I won't be throwing out anything important.

Sunday, February 06, 2005

Speaking of Cappuccino


If you are a lover of the bean, don't ever order a cappuccino in Brazil. It's not that they do not know how to make an excellent cup of expresso mixed with frothed milk. It is more an issue of nomenclature, with cappuccino usually meaning some kind of possibly caffeine-related hot beverage which is made from a powder. Yes, powder. I am not fully sure of the constitution of the powder, but it is truly awful. Sadly, it does not even relate to powdered cappuccino that I have come across in Canada, which also isn't cappuccino, but at least is recognizable as something coffee-related. So instead of ordering a cappuccino, one should always order a cafezinho com leite or a café espresso com leite. This pretty much guarantees that you will receive a steaming cappuccino. Some establishments will inevitably use the word cappuccino to refer to that-which-we-know-of-as-cappuccino, but the risk is too big. Never ask for it! Stick with a café espresso or cafezinho com leite and you will always be satisfied. Yum!

Bad Expat (a.k.a. It's Carnaval and I am sitting at home)

This week is Carnaval and I am celebrating by relaxing at home with a nice cappuccino, some cds in the cd player, and a book in hand. Having just spent thirty-two of the last seventy days traveling (and knowing that I will be spending twenty-one of the next twenty-eight days traveling), I felt that it was time to stay put, see if my kitchen still works, and reconnect with poor little Felix. Of course, there are Carnaval-related activities that I could participate in here in Sao Paulo, but Carnaval in the city is almost exculsively a paying-event which requires expensive tickets.

Carnaval is celebrated in every corner of Brazil, no matter how big or small the location. It does, however, take on different forms in each place. Rio is clearly the most flamboyant and outgoing of the celebrations with outrageous costumes (or lack thereof) being the norm. Carnaval in Rio also requires the purchase of tickets to participate in the parade.

On the other hand, Carnaval in Recife and Olinda (where I will be next year), is a much less flamboyant and more democratic holiday with everyone taking to the streets and no ticket purchases necessary. The costumes are a little more conservative (although, to be fair, it is not very difficult to be more conservative than the Rio affair!) and everyone parades and dances behind giant dolls that represent popular Brazilian personalities.

So I feel a little guilty for missing the celebrations, but on the flip side, it is nice to be able to sleep in and relax for a few days. I promise that next year, I will be in there with the best of them!

Saturday, February 05, 2005

... Driving in Sao Paulo

This week I signed up for driving lessons! I figured that this was a Very Good Idea. While the public transportation system serves me quite well, I think that a car would give me a lot more freedom to set my own schedule.

Most visitors to Sao Paulo are terrified of the streets with its millions of cars swerving in and out, turning right from the left lane and left from the right lane, ignoring any kind of street signs, and leaving very little space between moving cars. It's an effort in deep breathing everytime. However, a closer look at traffic in Sao Paulo shows that, in fact, there does exist a certain level of respect between drivers. A car will always slow down to let another one cut in front and people are always patient when a driver needs to make an illegal turn from the wrong lane. Since there is so much traffic, cars are rarely going all that fast, which means that its easier to make concessions. Still ... I figured that I could benefit from a few lessons before jumping in and test driving a car to buy.

My challenge is two-fold. First there is the challenge of adjusting to the streets of Sao Paulo. Second, there is the challenge of doing this with standard transmission. As someone who was born and raised in an automatic-car household, my knowledge of standard transmission until now has remained at a fairly theoretical level. Okay, I exaggerate, I have driven standard once before, in my sister's pick-up in Metchosin, B.C. Here is a comparison of my first two times driving a standard vehicle:

Time One:
Date: June 2003 or August 2000 (I can't even remember which trip it was, that's how long ago it was ...)
Location: Metchosin, B.C.
Terrain: Rural
Population: 5,000
Number of Traffic Lights: 0

Time Two:
Date: February 2005
Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil
Terrain: Urban Megalopolis
Population: 18 million
Number of Traffic Lights: 5,141

Needless to say, I am happy that I signed up for five lessons as opposed to the original two that I was thinking would be necessary. The way things are going, I might even sign up for another five. No, but seriously, I had my second lesson yesterday and things are already going better. Only stalled twice, and never caused either my or my instructor's head to hit the windshield even once. Of course, until now, we have stayed on residential streets in a Very Posh Neighbourhood. The only other cars around are the residents' beamers and bullet-proof SUVs and all the little Impacto cars, which belong to the private security firm which seems to be the company of choice in this neighbourhood. A brief aside, driving school cars in Sao Paulo are painted to look like racing cars, which is funny, because we are anything but racing. The private security cars are also all painted up, which makes for a funny driving experience in these rich residential neighbourhoods which are clearly highly sought after by both the driving schools and the private security industry.

Although I am getting more comfortable with the whole standard thing, I still feel on the verge of a minor heartattack every time that we have driven on a "real street" with traffic lights and other cars. Next week I have two more lessons, after which I am sure that I will be out there swerving in and out with the best of them! Ha!

Adventures in Public Transportation

Sao Paulo is not impossible for the carless. It is just more difficult and time consuming to navigate. There is an excellent metro system which is fast, efficient, and inexpensive. Its main drawback is its reach, with the closest metro station to my place being a twenty-five minute bus ride away. There are also a thousand bus lines (this is not an exaggeration!) that criss-cross the city. The buses are a mix between old and new, and fast and slow. The trick is to catch the bus that is the most direct route between your point of departure and your destination, which is not always as easy as it sounds. Buses are a way of life for millions of Paulistanos who live in the poor peripheries of the city and commute to their jobs in the city. It is not uncommon for people to spend three to four hours (an hour and a half to two hours in each direction) commuting to and from work by bus.

For the first few months, I relied on the guide published by the city which details, street by street, the routes of every single bus line in town. Although extremely useful, relying on this guide has meant that I have often ended up on serious milkruns of buses! My experimentation did, however, lead to me figuring out which bus goes directly to work, which is a pretty positive outcome. It also led to miscalculations and having to walk back kilometres to get to my destination. Ah, live and learn!

About a month ago I realized that there is a central phone number for the city offices with helpful people at the other end of the line who will tell you exactly which bus to take to get between point A and point B. What a service! Taking the bus is now much easier as I manage to catch the best option and not the milkruns. Somehow -- and thankfully -- the buses that I want / need to take are never the most crowded ones!

I think that most of my coworkers think that I am a little bit crazy for using the public transportation system. Known for being crowded, slow, and occasionally robbed, public transportation is not usually the option for people who can afford to drive or take taxis. My personal opinion is that during the day, it is fine to take the bus, while once darkness hits I will take taxis for security reasons. A car would obviously offer a lot more freedom, which leads me to my next topic ....