Feijoada -- A Guest Column
Here is a little piece written by my colleague Vlad, clearly a lover of beans! Feijoada is a bean and pork dish, reputedly invented by slaves during the colonial period who had to be content with using the pork bits tossed out by the landowners (ears, tails, feet ...). Modern versions still contain these pieces of mystery-meat, but can easily be found with more sophisticated cuts of meat as well.
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Perhaps the most quintessentially Brazilian of all Brazilian dishes in that it's national rather than regional, feijoada (or, as I like to translate it, beanorama) is served in abundance in Sao Paulo. In this city where eating out is often a family ritual, feijoada has its dedicated days: Wednesday and Saturday. While Saturday is the day when feijoada is traditionally served in Brazil as a whole, Wednesday is the Sao Paulo addition to max out on the popularity of this simple and nutritious dish.
Feijoada is actually more than a bean stew with different parts of the pig and cubed dried beef, it's an institution. Families gather around the plentiful feijoada spread in good restaurants, and it's often accompanied by Brazilian rhythms and turned from a simple meal into a festivity. Being an eater rather than a dancer, I'll mention here places where the food itself is the primary attraction, rather than the surroundings.
The restaurant in Sao Paulo almost synonymous with feijoada is Bolinha. It has the advantage of serving feijoada every day. It has existed in the same Cidade Jardim location for half a century, and its feijoada is traditional. However, it's on the pricey side, and the overwhelming opinion is that you don't get your money's worth. Another restaurant that specializes in feijoada and where you can enjoy it every day is, in my opinion, a friendlier and better option. Feijoada da Lana is located in the charming neighbourhood of Vila Madalena (Rua Aspicuelta, 421). The spread isn't as varied as in some other establishments, but they have one of the tastiest feijoadas I've tried in Sao Paulo at very reasonable prices (R$ 17.50 on weekdays, twice that much on weekends, but dessert buffet is included). On a nice day the small patio is a nice place to sit. The ambiance inside is simple and unassuming. Their caldo de feijão is excellent!
Feijoada is served in a wide variety of places. If you want cheap, you go to your local padaria. You do that, and you're likely to stay in single digits for something that's a very hearty and, in better cases, tasty meal. Indoor markets, such as the one in Santo Amaro, also offer the feijoada option on designated days. However, if you wish to go for quality rather than the price, and if you want to see what you're eating (in bakeries you're likely to get feet, ears, and other interesting parts of the animal), you may wish to opt for one of the high end restaurants. Many people think that Baby Beef Rubaiyat (make sure your audio is on if you check out the website) has the best feijoada in the city, and the trimmings, including free batidas, are abundant. There are two locations: one on Alameda Santos, the other on Faria Lima. For those who want to see and be seen, that's the place to be. Another option for those who are willing to spend a few reais more on their feijoada are some of the better hotel restaurants. Let's not forget our own Caluma, on the concourse level of the building where the Consulate is located, which also serves good, albeit not cheap, feijoada, and has excellent deserts to boot.
The options are endless; however, I must suggest a place that we've already tested several times, a hidden gem of a boteco chique called Armazén Paulista, in Moema. It's a beautifully decorated Brazilian bar, evoking the spirit of old Sao Paulo while being very modern at the same time. The feijoada is tasty, the buffet is rich, and the price is unbeatable (R$ 18 per person). Their draft beer is served very carefully, at the right temperature and consistency, and the atmosphere is casual and relaxed. Although the restaurant is well attended, if you get there before 2 pm your chances of finding a table are actually pretty good. They have other things on the menu as well, so if you don't feel like feijoada, you always have the option of going there another day. Right across the street is another fancy boteco, Favela, which also serves feijoada on Saturdays. And there are probably ten thousand other places in Sao Paulo which we'll never have an opportunity to visit...
Whatever your choice may be, feijoada is an integral part of living in Brazil and shouldn't be missed. Whether you genuinely like feijoada or think it's just a good pretext to drink caipirinha and beer, or sit with family or friends for a couple of hours, it's a nice way to spend a Saturday afternoon - especially if you leave room for a refreshing nap afterwards.
* * * *
Perhaps the most quintessentially Brazilian of all Brazilian dishes in that it's national rather than regional, feijoada (or, as I like to translate it, beanorama) is served in abundance in Sao Paulo. In this city where eating out is often a family ritual, feijoada has its dedicated days: Wednesday and Saturday. While Saturday is the day when feijoada is traditionally served in Brazil as a whole, Wednesday is the Sao Paulo addition to max out on the popularity of this simple and nutritious dish.
Feijoada is actually more than a bean stew with different parts of the pig and cubed dried beef, it's an institution. Families gather around the plentiful feijoada spread in good restaurants, and it's often accompanied by Brazilian rhythms and turned from a simple meal into a festivity. Being an eater rather than a dancer, I'll mention here places where the food itself is the primary attraction, rather than the surroundings.
The restaurant in Sao Paulo almost synonymous with feijoada is Bolinha. It has the advantage of serving feijoada every day. It has existed in the same Cidade Jardim location for half a century, and its feijoada is traditional. However, it's on the pricey side, and the overwhelming opinion is that you don't get your money's worth. Another restaurant that specializes in feijoada and where you can enjoy it every day is, in my opinion, a friendlier and better option. Feijoada da Lana is located in the charming neighbourhood of Vila Madalena (Rua Aspicuelta, 421). The spread isn't as varied as in some other establishments, but they have one of the tastiest feijoadas I've tried in Sao Paulo at very reasonable prices (R$ 17.50 on weekdays, twice that much on weekends, but dessert buffet is included). On a nice day the small patio is a nice place to sit. The ambiance inside is simple and unassuming. Their caldo de feijão is excellent!
Feijoada is served in a wide variety of places. If you want cheap, you go to your local padaria. You do that, and you're likely to stay in single digits for something that's a very hearty and, in better cases, tasty meal. Indoor markets, such as the one in Santo Amaro, also offer the feijoada option on designated days. However, if you wish to go for quality rather than the price, and if you want to see what you're eating (in bakeries you're likely to get feet, ears, and other interesting parts of the animal), you may wish to opt for one of the high end restaurants. Many people think that Baby Beef Rubaiyat (make sure your audio is on if you check out the website) has the best feijoada in the city, and the trimmings, including free batidas, are abundant. There are two locations: one on Alameda Santos, the other on Faria Lima. For those who want to see and be seen, that's the place to be. Another option for those who are willing to spend a few reais more on their feijoada are some of the better hotel restaurants. Let's not forget our own Caluma, on the concourse level of the building where the Consulate is located, which also serves good, albeit not cheap, feijoada, and has excellent deserts to boot.
The options are endless; however, I must suggest a place that we've already tested several times, a hidden gem of a boteco chique called Armazén Paulista, in Moema. It's a beautifully decorated Brazilian bar, evoking the spirit of old Sao Paulo while being very modern at the same time. The feijoada is tasty, the buffet is rich, and the price is unbeatable (R$ 18 per person). Their draft beer is served very carefully, at the right temperature and consistency, and the atmosphere is casual and relaxed. Although the restaurant is well attended, if you get there before 2 pm your chances of finding a table are actually pretty good. They have other things on the menu as well, so if you don't feel like feijoada, you always have the option of going there another day. Right across the street is another fancy boteco, Favela, which also serves feijoada on Saturdays. And there are probably ten thousand other places in Sao Paulo which we'll never have an opportunity to visit...
Whatever your choice may be, feijoada is an integral part of living in Brazil and shouldn't be missed. Whether you genuinely like feijoada or think it's just a good pretext to drink caipirinha and beer, or sit with family or friends for a couple of hours, it's a nice way to spend a Saturday afternoon - especially if you leave room for a refreshing nap afterwards.
posted by Karen @ 1:45 a.m.
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